• Thrives best when provided with plenty of bright, indirect sunlight
  • Water water water! Try to keep the Trap’s soil very moist at all times – in the wild they live in swamps, so they require wet potting soil.
  • Sometimes, Traps can be sensitive to the chemicals and minerals in tap water, so using distilled water, or water which has been left exposed to the air for 24 hours can help prevent issues
  • If any of the traps’ heads or leaves turn black, pinch them off and remove them to prevent issues and fungus
  • Do not fertilize! Bugs will fertilize the plant as they are trapped and consumed
  • Feeding dead bugs directly to your Venus Fly Trap takes more effort than one might expect: In the wild, they would only ever have access to live, wriggling prey, and while the traps might close on a dead insect, it may reopen soon after (and without digesting the buggy goodness). If you do have to feed it dead insects, after the trap closes initially, very (VERY) gently bring the two sides of the trap’s “head” together to help stimulate the tiny little hairs which let the plant know that it’s got something that’s alive and ready to be eaten
  • Using a thin piece of grass, or a toothpick, to reach in and gently touch/manipulate the inner hairs when the trap is lightly closed can also work
  • Feeding live bugs can happen automatically as they’re attracted to the Venus Fly Trap, but automatic feeding may be hard to come by during the cold, winter months. If you are able to trap an insect, quickly place it in the freezer for a minute or two – just enough to stun the bug into immobility. Then, it should be able to be dropped in to the trap’s waiting maw. When the insect comes back around, its movements should cause the trap to close automatically